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The Cosmopolitan DreamTransnational Chinese Masculinities in a Global Age$
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Derek Hird and Geng Song

Print publication date: 2018

Print ISBN-13: 9789888455850

Published to Hong Kong Scholarship Online: May 2019

DOI: 10.5790/hongkong/9789888455850.001.0001

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Tasting Food, Tasting Nostalgia

Tasting Food, Tasting Nostalgia

Cai Lan’s “Culinary Masculinity”

(p.149) 8 Tasting Food, Tasting Nostalgia
The Cosmopolitan Dream

Jin Feng

Hong Kong University Press

In this chapter, I use Cai Lan (aka Chua Lam), a Hong Kong–based food critic, as a case study to examine the construction of masculine identity through gastronomic literature. Cai integrates a cosmopolitan outlook and traditional literati sensibilities into his work, and he draws upon both world-based culinary knowledge and locally based individual experience. His contrasting strategies of simultaneously elevating local cuisine and promoting cosmopolitan taste through literature and commerce ultimately reveal a form of identity politics at a particular historical moment in Hong Kong.

Keywords:   Cai Lan, Chua Lam, gastronomic literature, Hong Kong, identity, cosmopolitanism, culinary masculinity, food critic

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